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Fashion

Roger Moore
Fashion/Features/Further Reading

The Suits of Roger Moore

Nick Guzan: Roger Moore may have only played James Bond on screen for twelve years (and, even at that, he’s the longest-serving 007 to date), but it was a role that he and his fans cherished for the rest of his life. Moore brought life into the Bond role, after a string of arguably uninspired performances in the later Sean Connery outings, who was tiring of the role he made famous, and Australian newbie George Lazenby. He also brought, for the first time, an individualistic sense of style that Moore himself had cultivated over his decades-long career. Moore was noted for… Keep Reading

Holly Rose Swinyard
Fashion/Features/Further Reading

Nonbinary Fashion

Holly Rose Swinyard is a self-proclaimed fashion experimentalist who writes about non binary fashion. Of all the fashions I follow and engage with, I think that this Chap look is the most me. Despite having a very definite male/female divide – Chaps and Chapettes, though there are many ongoing attempts to introduce Chapex, or just to degender Chap as a fashion term – I have found that not only do I love the fashion, but the community is the most accepting of any of the fashion communities. Fun, rambunctious, and downright splendid in their taste and style, these Chaps welcome all with… Keep Reading

Lady Eccentrik
Fashion/Further Reading

Lady Eccentrik

At this year’s Chap Olympiad in July, Lady Eccentrik won our best-dressed female award and agreed to answer some questions for us  Photograph by Soulstealer Photography What were you wearing on the day of the Chap Olympiad?  Original 1940s dressing robe, printed in a vibrant pattern of bright cornflower blue daisies with maize yellow centres, jewel green foliage and posies of poppy-red blossoms. I accessorised it with elegant ladies’ cream dress gloves with baby-soft leather and a really thin lining. I believe they’re from the 50s or 60s. I styled my hair in a Marcel wave. My gorgeous full fluffy… Keep Reading

Trickers Shoes
Fashion

Trickers

Founded in 1829 by Joseph Tricker, R. E. Tricker Ltd is one of the longest established shoemakers in England. Having gained a reputation for producing footwear of superlative quality, in 1989 they were granted a Royal Warrant by HRH The Prince of Wales. Five generations later, Tricker’s is still a family-run operation. Each pair of Tricker’s shoes is made entirely from start to finish in their Northampton shoe factory, by a team of 90 skilled shoemakers and craftspeople trained in-house to keep traditional techniques and methods alive to this day. Tricker’s also offer a full bespoke service, one of the… Keep Reading

Cheaney Shoes
Fashion

Last Horizon

Many have heard speak of the legend of Northampton. Historically the home of English shoe making since the 15th century, it is said that one may purchase footwear for a song from one of the eleven factory outlet stores. Four of us fired up Mick Hawksworth’s shooting brake and we set forth for the Midlands. We have come 134 miles from the Chap offices but are immediately stepping into our world. We enter a wood-panelled vestibule with nobody in it; just a 1930s sign saying ENQUIRIES and a bell. This is the Cheaney factory in Desborough, 18 miles outside Northampton… Keep Reading

Les Sapeurs
Fashion

Les Sapeurs

Brazzaville, capital of the Republic of Congo, is host to the Sapeurs: a group of dandies approaching the seriousness of a cult. Brazzaville is poor, like most Central-African nations, and it went through a civil war several years ago, the evidence of which is still pockmarked on quite a few facades. This is the reason the US State Department’s profile of the country includes the delightful sentence “In March 2003, the government signed a peace accord with the Ninjas, and the country has remained stable and calm since the signing.” Le Sape (The Societe des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Elegantes),… Keep Reading

Robert-ryan-on dangerous ground
Fashion

Mean Pleats

Hard-boiled language to go with hard-boiled plots. In fact, everything about Film Noir is pretty hard. Hard urban clutter in hard, rain-sodden mean streets. And the people who live on those streets are hard, too. The characters of film noir are not fulfilled, three-dimensional people. They are ciphers, stereotypes, interacting uneasily through confusing tales of morality and counter-morality. The one thing never confusing, though, is the way they’re dressed.   “All my dresses are beautiful. They gotta be in this racket. There’s nothin’ like clothes – that’s the sugar makes the flies come round.” Isabel Jewell in Marked Woman Even… Keep Reading

Seersucker Social USA
Fashion

Cotton Club

For the capital city of a superpower nation, Washington is sadly insular, non-cosmopolitan and aesthetically conservative. The suits are gray or navy, the ties are red or blue. Not since the pith-helmeted and moustachioed Teddy Roosevelt has a president looked like anything other than a businessman. On top of this, the summer heat can be stifling, adding to the soporific atmosphere of the city. Fortunately, sweat-drenched sartorial tedium has been resisted in Washington by a non-partisan movement which proudly waves as its flag the “Stripes-and-Stripes” of the great American fabric: seersucker. I once nearly fainted in awe at a white-on-white-striped… Keep Reading

Summer Fabrics
Fashion

Summer Fabreeze

The Dilemma faced by a chap when deciding what to wear during the longish hottish British summer, or when sauntering through far-flung lands, can be a sticky one. When the season finally prevents the donning of 18oz tweed three-pieces, where does one turn to find sartorial solace on sunnier days? Many modern lightweights lack the substantiability for the heavier-tailored garments favoured by the anarcho-dandy. But traditional summerweight fabrics are still available on the open market. FrescoÔ The first ‘air-conditioned’ material has been made in Huddersfield By the firm JJ Minnis for around a hundred and fifty years. Originally produced in… Keep Reading

Fashion on the Ration
Fashion

Fashion on the Ration

Think of clothing in World War II and chances are you’ll imagine either RAF officers on bombing raids or victory-rolled Land Girls in breeches and beetroot lipstick. You probably won’t think of men’s fashion. There’s a good reason for that. A new exhibition at the Imperial War Museum, Fashion on the Ration, 1940s Street Style, describes how the Second World War affected the way ordinary people looked and dressed. Men play a typically back-seat role in the displays, but a closer look reveals a low-key but determined presence. We all know about women’s wartime privations – gravy browning legs, boot-polish… Keep Reading

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