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The Chap Olympiad 2018

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The Chap Olympiad 2018 took place on Saturday 14th July in Bedford Square Gardens, Bloomsbury. Never in the field of human clothing was so much worn by so many; especially considering the 28-degree heatwave that swamped London that day. Ignoring details such as climactic conditions, Brown-in-Town, appropriate daywear for a civilised garden party, the guests at the event gave it their sartorial ace-in-the-hole, turning up in a more eclectic and extraordinary range of outfits than one would believe possible, to an event whose dress code only stipulates “Dress Up” and “No sportswear”. We had Madame Pompadours, eccentric travellers, a multitude…

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Nonbinary Fashion

in Fashion/Features/Further Reading by
Holly Rose Swinyard

Holly Rose Swinyard is a self-proclaimed fashion experimentalist who writes about non binary fashion. Of all the fashions I follow and engage with, I think that this Chap look is the most me. Despite having a very definite male/female divide – Chaps and Chapettes, though there are many ongoing attempts to introduce Chapex, or just to degender Chap as a fashion term – I have found that not only do I love the fashion, but the community is the most accepting of any of the fashion communities. Fun, rambunctious, and downright splendid in their taste and style, these Chaps welcome all with…

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Lady Eccentrik

in Fashion/Further Reading by
Lady Eccentrik

At this year’s Chap Olympiad in July, Lady Eccentrik won our best-dressed female award and agreed to answer some questions for us  Photograph by Soulstealer Photography What were you wearing on the day of the Chap Olympiad?  Original 1940s dressing robe, printed in a vibrant pattern of bright cornflower blue daisies with maize yellow centres, jewel green foliage and posies of poppy-red blossoms. I accessorised it with elegant ladies’ cream dress gloves with baby-soft leather and a really thin lining. I believe they’re from the 50s or 60s. I styled my hair in a Marcel wave. My gorgeous full fluffy…

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Trickers

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Trickers Shoes

Founded in 1829 by Joseph Tricker, R. E. Tricker Ltd is one of the longest established shoemakers in England. Having gained a reputation for producing footwear of superlative quality, in 1989 they were granted a Royal Warrant by HRH The Prince of Wales. Five generations later, Tricker’s is still a family-run operation. Each pair of Tricker’s shoes is made entirely from start to finish in their Northampton shoe factory, by a team of 90 skilled shoemakers and craftspeople trained in-house to keep traditional techniques and methods alive to this day. Tricker’s also offer a full bespoke service, one of the…

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Last Horizon

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Cheaney Shoes

Many have heard speak of the legend of Northampton. Historically the home of English shoe making since the 15th century, it is said that one may purchase footwear for a song from one of the eleven factory outlet stores. Four of us fired up Mick Hawksworth’s shooting brake and we set forth for the Midlands. We have come 134 miles from the Chap offices but are immediately stepping into our world. We enter a wood-panelled vestibule with nobody in it; just a 1930s sign saying ENQUIRIES and a bell. This is the Cheaney factory in Desborough, 18 miles outside Northampton…

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Les Sapeurs

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Les Sapeurs

Brazzaville, capital of the Republic of Congo, is host to the Sapeurs: a group of dandies approaching the seriousness of a cult. Brazzaville is poor, like most Central-African nations, and it went through a civil war several years ago, the evidence of which is still pockmarked on quite a few facades. This is the reason the US State Department’s profile of the country includes the delightful sentence “In March 2003, the government signed a peace accord with the Ninjas, and the country has remained stable and calm since the signing.” Le Sape (The Societe des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Elegantes),…

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Mean Pleats

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Robert-ryan-on dangerous ground

Hard-boiled language to go with hard-boiled plots. In fact, everything about Film Noir is pretty hard. Hard urban clutter in hard, rain-sodden mean streets. And the people who live on those streets are hard, too. The characters of film noir are not fulfilled, three-dimensional people. They are ciphers, stereotypes, interacting uneasily through confusing tales of morality and counter-morality. The one thing never confusing, though, is the way they’re dressed.   “All my dresses are beautiful. They gotta be in this racket. There’s nothin’ like clothes – that’s the sugar makes the flies come round.” Isabel Jewell in Marked Woman Even…

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Cotton Club

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Seersucker Social USA

For the capital city of a superpower nation, Washington is sadly insular, non-cosmopolitan and aesthetically conservative. The suits are gray or navy, the ties are red or blue. Not since the pith-helmeted and moustachioed Teddy Roosevelt has a president looked like anything other than a businessman. On top of this, the summer heat can be stifling, adding to the soporific atmosphere of the city. Fortunately, sweat-drenched sartorial tedium has been resisted in Washington by a non-partisan movement which proudly waves as its flag the “Stripes-and-Stripes” of the great American fabric: seersucker. I once nearly fainted in awe at a white-on-white-striped…

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Summer Fabreeze

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Summer Fabrics

The Dilemma faced by a chap when deciding what to wear during the longish hottish British summer, or when sauntering through far-flung lands, can be a sticky one. When the season finally prevents the donning of 18oz tweed three-pieces, where does one turn to find sartorial solace on sunnier days? Many modern lightweights lack the substantiability for the heavier-tailored garments favoured by the anarcho-dandy. But traditional summerweight fabrics are still available on the open market. FrescoÔ The first ‘air-conditioned’ material has been made in Huddersfield By the firm JJ Minnis for around a hundred and fifty years. Originally produced in…

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Fashion on the Ration

in Fashion by
Fashion on the Ration

Think of clothing in World War II and chances are you’ll imagine either RAF officers on bombing raids or victory-rolled Land Girls in breeches and beetroot lipstick. You probably won’t think of men’s fashion. There’s a good reason for that. A new exhibition at the Imperial War Museum, Fashion on the Ration, 1940s Street Style, describes how the Second World War affected the way ordinary people looked and dressed. Men play a typically back-seat role in the displays, but a closer look reveals a low-key but determined presence. We all know about women’s wartime privations – gravy browning legs, boot-polish…

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Ladies Smoking Pipes

in Photoshoots by

We sent photographer Nick Mann and a clutch of handsome ladies to answer that age-old conundrum: why do so few ladies smoke pipes? Hopefully these photographs will encourage ladies across the land to pilfer their Chap’s briars and perfume their own boudoirs with the scent of Latakia. Originally published issue 68, Sept 2013 Photography Nick Mann www.nick-mann.com Models: Marianne Cheesecake, Annette Bette Kellow, Millicent Binks, Banbury Cross

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Directory of Gentlemen’s Outfitters

in Reviews by

A discreet directory of shops and online emporia which, in the opinion of The Chap, offer a range of tastefully selected garments and accessories of a high manufacturing standard suitable for the discerning gentleman and, in some cases, his lady companion. T Snook. This charming shop in Bridport, Dorset, is principally a hatters, with every conceivable (and some inconceivable) style of headwear for gentlemen and ladies. T Snook also sells trousers, blazers, ties, cravats and snuff, all presented in a delightfully old-fashioned and charming manner. snooksthehatters.co.uk Alexanders of London. An on-line emporium offering ready-to-wear and made-to-measure, with an emphasis on…

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