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Fashion

extreme-butling
Fashion

Extreme Butling

Our erstwhile butler Mr. Bell has moved to the outskirts of Amsterdam to manage a tulip farm and rear goats. He left us in the capable hands of his factotum and personal assistant, Mr. Gimpley-Spankworth, who is here to offer readers advice on social, sartorial and etiquette matters. Send your queries to gimpley@thechap.co.uk Grant Jukes: As a Chap that is vertically challenged I would welcome your advice on the matter of pleats. Should one opt for flat fronted trousers or for garments with pleats, and if so, should these be forward or reverse. Also, to give more height, should one opt… Keep Reading

pocket-square
Fashion/News

Chap Pocket Squares

The imminent launch of a brand-new pocket square design sees the restocking of our coveted breast pocket adornments The launch of our new eau de cologne Raffish has led to the inevitable question: which pocket square is the correct one to wear alongside this decadent gentlemen’s fragrance? The solution seemed to be the design of a brand-new pocket square bearing the raffish credentials of the scent itself. To this end, we asked our resident pocket square and fragrance label designer Caroline Lindop: please design a motif that captures the louche spirit of a chap setting off at midnight in search… Keep Reading

coronavirus-mask
Fashion

The Semiotics of Face Masks

A handy guide to understanding what people are communicating via their choice of face coverings during the coronavirus pandemic When a new item of clothing enters the field, chaps are not normally consulted for their views, because for chaps there is no need for any new clothing items; they are still busy rediscovering things like smoking hats, moustache snoods and peculiar vintage cigarette holders. However, when the new item is introduced for reasons of public health and becomes mandatory, a chap has no choice but to embrace this new accessory. The face covering, being obligatory in public places such as… Keep Reading

Fashion

Sartorial London

Gustav Temple takes a highly educational sartorial stroll around the West End of London with professional city tour guide Russell Nash We meet on the steps of the Athenaeum Club and head along Pall Mall towards the bottom of St James’s Street, where Russell pauses outside the fabled gables of London hatters Lock & Co. to tell us its history: “In 1676, James Lock opened a hat shop very close to here. At the time, this area behind the Palace was being developed. Henry Jermyn, who had taken a lease on the land, developed it and the aristocracy started to… Keep Reading

simon-james-cathcart
Fashion

Simon James Cathcart

Simon James Cathcart, ahead of opening his first pop-up shop in London, with which The Chap will be collaborating, reveals in an interview conducted in The Chap in issue 92 the origins of his ideas for the menswear brand he founded and continues to evolve. You can read about the pop-up shop at the Clerk’s House, Shoreditch, on 12th-18th March 2020 here. Your business model appears to be slightly unusual. Could you explain how it differs from other new fashion labels? SJC differs by demand, detail and price. My core buyers wear and own some of the most complete vintage… Keep Reading

teba-jacket
Fashion

The Teba Jacket

Images of southern Spain, usually composed of matadors, barrels of sherry, women in flamenco dresses and orange trees wilting in the heat, do not commonly include tweed jackets. It’s rarely cold enough in Andalucia to don even a waistcoat, never mind a full tweed ensemble. Yet during the 1930s there emerged, from the royal and aristocratic country set, an Andalucian take on the Hacking Jacket that came to be known as the Teba Jacket. It was named after the snappily titled Don Carlos Mitjans y Fitz-James Stuart, XXI Conde de Teba y XV Conde de Baños, Grande de España, or… Keep Reading

gotham-riddler
Fashion/Features

Chap To The Future

Wherever you look in pop culture, you will see signs of our beloved Chap Fashion. Whether you are looking into a far-flung cyberpunk future or back to the romanticised past of fantasy worlds, there are clues and signposts all over the place to the classic influences that brought us here. Why have a few very specific time periods had such a large influence on our huge entertainment industry? Take my hand, oh dapper one, and let us go on a journey of discovery through the history of pop culture to find out. As a young person, I’m pretty sure that… Keep Reading

tweed-cap
Fashion/The Chap Wears

Sussex Tweed

You know when you get a new pair of brogues, and then all your other brogues suddenly look tired, old and worn-out next to them? Acquiring a Sussex Tweed cap has the same effect on all your other tweed caps. My collection of bakerboy caps numbers only a modest seven, but when The Windover joined them on the hat stand, they all seemed to cower in humility next to this officer-class piece of headwear. The Windover was presented to me on an occasion that had something of the Japanese Tea Ceremony about it. But the English version, with pints of… Keep Reading

chris-and-christos-83
Fashion

King of the Underworld

A while back, purely because I was very prominent during the 1980s and ran landmark clubs during the so called New Romantic era, some chump on that social media malarkey would not accept that, at that time, I was not wearing copious amounts of make-up. I, of course defended my corner as, being 6 foot 2 and 14 stone with a noticeably broken nose and a few facial scars to boot, blusher and eyeliner were not entirely ideal. He also said that I must have sported frilly shirts and big shoulder pads. Luckily for us both, I didn’t know where… Keep Reading

Fashion/The Chap Wears

Cordings of Piccadilly

An association between a 1960s blues guitar legend and an English country clothing store seems unlikely, but it is just this odd, eccentric twist on the traditional that makes Cordings of Piccadilly unique among its Jermyn Street neighbours. Eric Clapton became co-owner of Cordings in 2003, but that milestone was only one of many in the company’s illustrious past. John Charles Cording opened his first shop as an outfitter and waterproofer in 1839 at 231 Strand, manufacturing and selling mackintoshes developed by Charles Mackintosh. Cordings became so well-known for outdoor clothing that when Sir Henry Morton Stanley was preparing for… Keep Reading

star-wars-uniforms
Fashion

Star Wars Costumes

I know what you’re thinking. You’ve turned the page in your favourite sartorial magazine and found yourself staring upon the plebeian face of science fiction, and not just any science fiction, Star Wars, the refuge of raggedy old men with funny light up swords, and princesses with bagels stuck to their heads. I understand this might be slightly shocking after the eloquent discussions on which neck wear you should don to impress the chaps at the club, but I would like all of you to keep a broadish mind for a few moments, and allow me to argue the case… Keep Reading

princess-margaret-smoking
Fashion/Features

Princess Margaret

In previous articles of ‘The Dandy Doctor,’ I’ve explored Dandies like Marlene Dietrich and Eartha Kitt – women who were labelled by their contemporaries as ‘difficult’, ‘cold,’ ‘cruel,’ and even mad. The same traits that we often associate with male Dandies (affection for excess, icy demeanour, cutting wit), when seen in a female Dandy are often unfairly interpreted as a marker of instability – something Princess Margaret Rose discovered to her detriment. Born 21 August 1930, Margaret was four years Elizabeth II’s junior, but by all accounts their relationship was one of intimate closeness. Elizabeth even had a dedicated phone… Keep Reading

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