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1930s

Simon James Cathcart

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Simon James Cathcart, ahead of opening his first pop-up shop in London, with which The Chap will be collaborating, reveals in an interview conducted in The Chap in issue 92 the origins of his ideas for the menswear brand he founded and continues to evolve. You can read about the pop-up shop at the Clerk’s House, Shoreditch, on 12th-18th March 2020 here. Your business model appears to be slightly unusual. Could you explain how it differs from other new fashion labels? SJC differs by demand, detail and price. My core buyers wear and own some of the most complete vintage…

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Spearpoint Collars

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The man’s shirt collar has been shrinking over the years. Not only shrinking, but also it’s been running away from the knot of your tie. You can see it clear as day; those collar points are spreading farther and farther apart. I believe part of this is caused by the erroneous notion that the “fashion elite” like to press on the public, that there are certain collars that work best with certain face shapes, and they have a ritualistic standard that is all you should follow. Now I’m not completely disputing that there is some balance between face shape and…

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The Teba Jacket

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Images of southern Spain, usually composed of matadors, barrels of sherry, women in flamenco dresses and orange trees wilting in the heat, do not commonly include tweed jackets. It’s rarely cold enough in Andalucia to don even a waistcoat, never mind a full tweed ensemble. Yet during the 1930s there emerged, from the royal and aristocratic country set, an Andalucian take on the Hacking Jacket that came to be known as the Teba Jacket. It was named after the snappily titled Don Carlos Mitjans y Fitz-James Stuart, XXI Conde de Teba y XV Conde de Baños, Grande de España, or…

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