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Baoziinn

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When m’learned colleague invited me to join him for a Chinese meal, my first thought was – isn’t at least one of us a little old to be gorging on cut-price fodder ordered in a dank Soho basement by pointing at lurid pictures on a laminated menu, to an oriental chap who makes a virtue of being incredibly unfriendly? ‘Ah, but this is modern Chinese food,’ pointed out my highly gastronomically informed colleague, ‘they even have wine lists now. And the dim sum come in different colours.’ Naturally I assented immediately and prepared to be bowled over by our next…

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