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Hix Oyster Bar and Chop House

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Monday 16th March 2020 was an auspicious day for a long lunch with Chris Sullivan. Coronavirus fever was about to hit London, and full lockdown was imminent, with deserted streets and nearly empty Underground carriages. This could be the last chance we met for some time, and possibly the last chance anyone had of enjoying a civilised meal in a restaurant, or indeed any kind of meal in any kind of restaurant, before they are all forced to close for a period. We had chosen our location well for this significant repast. Hix Oyster Bar and Chop House is a…

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Rüya London

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For many of us in Britain, our experience of Turkish cuisine has usually been taken while standing on a pavement, perhaps slightly swaying in the recollection of a drop taken, bathed in the neon glow from a sign succinctly reading ‘Kebab’. Those of us who were fortunate enough to have lived in the borough of Stoke Newington in London, before the hipsters colonised it, experienced a more salubrious version of shish, doner and Iskender while seated, often near a table where Gilbert & George tucked into their weekly visit to Mangal II. So when m’learned colleague suggested we sample the…

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The Ivy In The Lanes

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Keith Waterhouse once described Brighton as ‘a town that looks as if it’s helping the police with its enquiries.’ This barbed, if undeniably once accurate, comment seems somewhat outdated in 2019. Yes, there are still parts of Sodom-by-the-Sea, as it was once dubbed, that have the authentic seediness of the dive about them. However, there are now many more that do credit to any bustling metropolis, thanks to a combination of a lively and well-heeled populace with good taste and the far greater range of places for them to spend their money. Chief amongst these is one of the most…

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